Set Photopolymerfilm F4000 and developer
Acid resistant dry photopolymer film resist with high resolution and very fast exposure . Best choice for the production of printing plates for intaglio ( photo etching | photogravure ), to etch pcbs in DIY electronics, for subtle etching of brass in modelling and as masking tape for sandblasting. Further fields of application: as an etch resist for glass, stone, jewellery and knife blades.
With Photopolymerfilm F4000 fast, precise and reliable results can be achived.
- width: 46 cm
- thickness: 50 micron
- resolution: 20 - 25 micron smallest dot size
- Exposure times: 3 - 20 seconds depending on light source
- colour: blue
- after exposure: violet
- handling: under yellow light or in shaded room
- shelf life unexposed: 2 years
- negativ working ( unexposed parts will be removed during development )
- non-toxic, enviroment friendly
- aqueous processable
- high acid and mechanical resistance
Lamination: Cut a piece off the photopolymer film roll. The film is sandwiched between two protective layers of mylar. Remove the inner protective mylar ( the inner mylar is a little softer and thicker than the outer protective mylar ).Clean the surface of the material that should be laminated with the film. The surface ought to be dust and grease free. The easiest way of lamination is the wet lamination method: Spray the uncovered sid of the film and the surface of the object that should be covered evenly with a spray bottle filled with distilled water. Then squeege out all water and wrinkles with a rubber squeegie. Start carefully then apply more pressure to remove all exess water. If You laminate something flat, like pcb or a copperplate then run the plate through a hot laminator once or twice if available. After that the plate should be allowed to dry for at least one hour in darkness.
Exposure: Given that the photopolymer film is negative acting, all parts that should be etched must be prevented from exposure so that the film can be washed away in those areas during development. This is achieved by either paint directly on the surface of the laminated film with a black sharpie pen or by printing out a positive with an inkjet printer. For printing a positive a wide range of trasparencies is suitable. Best results can be achieved by using repro film for screenprinting. Printer driver settings are: Photo Glossy Paper and black/white to obtain an opaque transparency. If You don't have an exposure unit or vacuum frame, You should use a picture frame glass and a soft backing and press the film and laminated plate between to ensure tight contact between the positive (transparency) and the film surface .
Light sources can be everything that emmitts uv-light: terrarium lamps,work spot lights, exposure units and last but not least simply the sun. Exposing in the sun produces very precise and good results as long as the different exposure times are determined ( seasons, daytime )
Exposure time in Juli from 12 - 20 o'clock : 3 seconds
- Development: Prepare a solution of 1 percent of developer and water ( e.g. 1 liter water + 10 gram developer ) in a tray. Remove the protective mylar from the film surface and put the plate into the developer. Leave it in there for at least 1 minute. The unexposed parts are solved by the developer. To aid in removing developed residue the surface can be scrubbed carefully with a sponge or a brush. If all residue is removed, pull out the plate and rinse in cold tap water for about 1,5 minutes. If problems occur with unremoved residue the concentration of the developer solution can be raised to 2%.
After development the film has to be dried with a fan or hot air gun for about 2 minutes and then hardened under uv-light for 5 to 10 minutes.
The plate is now ready for etching.
After etching the plate the film can be removed in a solution of 10 % developer in hot water or a 5 % solution of stripper in water. Further methods of removal are the immersion in acetone or alcohol.